The Heilongjiang, the great border river Chinese cities share with Russia, has begun its annual transformation. Drone images taken at Heihe show the surface broken into thousands of ice pans and slabs, grinding downstream in the season locals call running ice, the last act before the river locks solid for winter.
The floes range from dinner-plate shards to rafts the size of buildings, their edges rounded by collisions and their surfaces dusted white against gunmetal water. At bends in the channel they pile into low dams, groaning and rearranging as the current pushes the next sheet into the stack.
For Heihe, a far-northern trading city in Heilongjiang Province, the running ice is a local ritual. Residents walk the embankment with cameras and thermoses, watching ice that formed far upstream pass the city on its way east. Across the water, the Russian skyline of Blagoveshchensk sits under the same low autumn light, both banks watching the same river shut down.
The shift happens quickly. A sudden cold snap can take the river from open water to drifting floes in days, and a second cold front will eventually fuse the pans into a sheet thick enough for vehicles and winter crossings by the deepest part of the season.
Scientists who monitor the river note that the timing of freeze-up has crept later in warm years, which makes the running-ice window both spectacle and indicator. This year the floes arrived on schedule, their slow, relentless drift a reminder of the scale of winter at this latitude.
By the time the ice finally stops moving, Heihe will be a city of minus-thirty mornings and frozen breath. For now, the river is still in motion, and the city turns out to watch it go. Fishing boats have already been pulled from the water along the Heihe waterfront, and riverside stalls that sold grilled fish through the summer are boarded up. Hydrologists take daily readings during the running-ice period, tracking floe density and the moment the river can be declared sealed, a date that helps schedule the winter hovercraft crossings and, in the coldest years, temporary ice roads.

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