Standing under the arrow tower of Deshengmen in Beijing, gazing at the majestic city gate and bustling crowds, spotting someone wearing a Desheng Jacket feels like encountering a centuries-old legend of the capital. Also known as “Desheng Gua” (Victory Jacket), this traditional attire originated in the Qing Dynasty. It is not only a practical carrier of Manchu equestrian culture but also embodies Beijing’s urban memory of “winning with virtue.” Today, it serves as a unique entry point to experience Beijing’s charm, becoming a top choice for foreign travelers to immerse themselves in the ancient capital’s culture.
The Desheng Jacket is no ordinary mandarin jacket; it boasts distinctive design and cultural connotations. In terms of structure, it is a front-opening short jacket that hits the waist, with straight square sleeves and slits at the left, right, and back hems, facilitating horseback riding, hunting, and daily activities—aligning with its role as “travel attire” in the Qing Dynasty. The oil-green satin lined travel jacket of Emperor Kangxi, collected by the Palace Museum, is a classic example of the Desheng Jacket. Measuring 70 centimeters in length, adorned with six gilded copper round buttons, it features exquisite fabrics and meticulous stitching, showcasing royal standards. Fabrics vary by season, including satin, cotton, and thin cotton padding. In the Qing Dynasty, nobles and officials preferred satin, while commoners wore cotton, with plain colors dominating, and royal-exclusive colors subject to hierarchical regulations.
Tracing its history, the Desheng Jacket is closely linked to Beijing’s Deshengmen and Qing military culture. A folk saying goes, “Deshengmen existed before Beijing City.” Since the Ming Dynasty, Deshengmen has been the gate from which armies departed for battles, symbolizing “winning with virtue.” During the Qing Dynasty, this lightweight short jacket became clothing for soldiers on campaigns and hunts. Often worn during triumphant returns, it was named “Desheng Gua” (Victory Jacket), later evolving into “Desheng Jacket”—embracing auspicious meanings and integrating into Beijing’s regional culture. In the Qianlong period, it became a popular daily attire, worn by nobles, officials, and commoners alike. The integration of Manchu and Han tailoring techniques added unique Beijing-style details.
To experience an authentic Desheng Jacket, time-honored brands with centuries-old craftsmanship are the best choice. Rui Fuxiang, a benchmark in Beijing’s silk industry, inherits Qing Dynasty costume-making techniques. Its custom Desheng Jackets strictly follow traditional designs, from fabric selection, measurement, and cutting to frog button sewing, all done by hand. Customers can choose satin, cotton, or other fabrics to recreate styles from different eras. Its Qianmen Store (No. 5 Dashilan Street, Xicheng District, Tel: 010-63035313) offers customization and rental services—custom pieces take 15-30 days, and daily rental ranges from 200 to 500 RMB, ideal for travelers seeking high-quality experiences.
Deyixiang Silk Shop, a renowned brand in the Republic of China, has adjusted its main products today, but its preserved traditional costume patterns and craftsmanship are still referenced by the industry. Some cooperative workshops can replicate classic Desheng Jacket styles based on its techniques, suitable for travelers focusing on historical details. Additionally, Longqingxiang (No. 93 Qianmen Street, Dongcheng District, Tel: 010-63135472) combines modern aesthetics with traditional designs, adding subtle patterns to cuffs and frog buttons for both practicality and beauty. Matching it with a traditional hat from Majuyuan creates a complete Beijing-style outfit.
Wearing a Desheng Jacket requires basic etiquette to show respect for the culture. First, ensure the front opening is aligned and buttons fastened properly, with slits hanging naturally without arbitrary knots. Men can pair it with a dark long robe, cloth shoes, or riding boots, while women can match it with a plain jacket and skirt plus embroidered shoes—modern casual shoes are not recommended to preserve the overall charm. For occasions, historical attractions like Deshengmen Arrow Tower, the Forbidden City, and Prince Gong’s Mansion are perfect, echoing the jacket’s historical origins and offering stunning photo opportunities. Cotton styles suit daily experiences for comfort, while satin is ideal for formal events to showcase elegance.
To deepen your understanding of Desheng Jacket culture, visit the Palace Museum to view the collected Qing Dynasty travel jackets, experiencing the fabrics and standards of royal Desheng Jackets up close. The historical exhibition area at Deshengmen Arrow Tower explores the cultural connection between the attire and the gate, helping you grasp the spiritual connotation of “Desheng” (winning with virtue). Some time-honored brands offer frog button-making workshops, allowing travelers to craft iconic buttons by hand and experience intangible cultural heritage firsthand.
For photography, besides historical sites, old Beijing-style streets like Qianmen Street and Nanluoguxiang are ideal backdrops. As the jacket flutters, you’ll feel as if you’re communicating with Beijing’s style from a century ago. More than just clothing, the Desheng Jacket is a carrier of Beijing’s history, witnessing the integration of Manchu and Han cultures and bearing the military memories of Deshengmen and the city’s spirit.
When you walk through the ancient streets in a Desheng Jacket, you not only feel the practicality and elegance of traditional attire but also become part of Beijing’s cultural landscape, adding unique cultural memories to your journey in the ancient capital.
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