Wandering along the gray-tiled lanes of Nanluoguxiang in Beijing, spotting someone wearing a cape and jacket-skirt set feels like encountering the elegance of ladies from the Ming and Qing dynasties. As a classic combination of traditional Han women’s clothing, this set developed through the Ming and Qing dynasties, integrating etiquette aesthetics and practical functions. It retains the core structure of Hanfu—cross-collar with the right side overlapping the left—and absorbs the craftsmanship essence of Beijing-style clothing. It is an excellent carrier for foreign travelers to immerse themselves in traditional Han culture in Beijing, with every detail embodying the gentleness and ingenuity of Eastern aesthetics.
The Cape & Jacket-Skirt set is not a single garment but a matching outfit consisting of a cape, a jacket, and a skirt. It has a standardized structure and a sense of hierarchy. The cape, as the outer garment, is mostly front-opening with a straight collar, reaching the knees or ankles, with wide cuffs. The neckline, cuffs, and hem are trimmed with exquisite edging. Some high-end styles are embroidered with auspicious patterns such as interlocking lotus, peonies, plum blossoms, orchids, bamboos, and chrysanthemums. Fabrics vary by season: satin for formal occasions, yarn for summer, cotton for daily wear, and fur for winter warmth. The inner jacket-skirt consists of a “large jacket + long skirt”. The large jacket has a cross-collar, wide sleeves, and a fitted waist, reaching below the waist. The long skirt is mostly a pleated skirt or a horse-face skirt with a wide hem, swaying gracefully when walking. A palace ribbon or jade belt is tied around the waist to fix the skirt and add decoration.
Tracing its history, the prototype of the Cape & Jacket-Skirt set can be traced back to the Beizi (a loose outer garment) in the Song Dynasty, and it gradually took shape and became popular during the Ming and Qing dynasties, becoming the mainstream clothing for Han women. In the Ming Dynasty, capes were mostly straight-cut with simple and elegant patterns, mainly plain satin, paired with horse-face skirts to show dignity and elegance, and were commonly worn by noble women on daily and etiquette occasions. In the Qing Dynasty, influenced by Manchu clothing, the cuffs of capes were widened, the edging craftsmanship became more intricate, and the patterns were more gorgeous. The version of the jacket-skirt was slightly adjusted, with a fluffier skirt hem, while retaining the core structure of Han clothing, forming a Beijing-style that integrates Manchu and Han elements. From the late Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China, although the Cape & Jacket-Skirt set was gradually replaced by cheongsams, it has always been inherited in cultural performances and folk activities as an important representative of traditional clothing.
There are clear distinctions in style, fabric, and pattern of the Cape & Jacket-Skirt set for different occasions. For formal etiquette occasions such as weddings and sacrifices, capes made of satin should be selected, paired with large jackets and horse-face skirts embroidered with auspicious patterns, with dignified colors such as bright red, sapphire blue, and moon white. For daily wear, cotton or yarn capes with simple patterns and plain colors are suitable, paired with plain jacket-skirts for more comfort and convenience. The moon-white satin cape embroidered with interlocking lotus from the Ming Dynasty, collected by the Palace Museum, has a delicate fabric and vivid patterns, paired with a pomegranate red horse-face skirt, showing the dignity and luxury of noble women, and is a vivid physical example of Cape & Jacket-Skirt culture.
To experience the Cape & Jacket-Skirt set today, one must rely on time-honored brands that inherit traditional Han clothing craftsmanship to restore its structural essence and craftsmanship. Rui Fuxiang, a century-old silk shop, has fully inherited the production techniques of Ming and Qing Cape & Jacket-Skirt sets. Its customized sets strictly follow traditional structures, using custom satin and cotton fabrics, with hand-made edging and embroidery. Customers can choose patterns and colors according to their needs to restore styles from different dynasties. Its Qianmen Store (No. 5 Dashilan Street, Xicheng District, Tel: 010-63035313) provides customization and rental services. Customization takes 20-35 days, and the daily rental price ranges from 200 to 600 RMB (including supporting palace ribbon and embroidered shoes), suitable for travelers pursuing high reduction.
In addition to Rui Fuxiang, many Hanfu experience stores in Beijing also provide rental services for Cape & Jacket-Skirt sets. For example, “Chong Hui Han Tang” Hanfu Store on Guozijian Street, Dongcheng District, offers a variety of styles with high cost performance, covering different styles of the Ming and Qing dynasties. The staff can provide professional wearing guidance to help travelers quickly master matching skills. Longqingxiang (No. 93 Qianmen Street, Dongcheng District, Tel: 010-63135472) focuses on high-end customization, which can combine modern aesthetics with traditional structures, make slight adjustments in patterns and versions, and balance beauty and comfort, suitable for travelers pursuing personalized experiences.
Wearing a Cape & Jacket-Skirt set requires basic etiquette to show respect for traditional culture. First, ensure that the cross-collar of the jacket overlaps right over left—this is the core etiquette of Han clothing. The cape should be tied properly with the skirt hem hanging naturally without arbitrary knots. For matching, traditional accessories such as jade hairpins, tasseled hairpins, and jade pendants can be worn, paired with embroidered shoes or cloth shoes. Modern shoes and accessories are not recommended to avoid destroying the overall charm.
For occasions, royal gardens and ancient buildings such as the Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, Prince Gong’s Mansion, and Summer Palace are the most suitable, which can echo the classical temperament of the set and take photos with a strong sense of atmosphere. Old Beijing streets such as Nanluoguxiang, Yandai Xiejie, and Guozijian are also very suitable. Walking along these streets, you will feel as if you have traveled back to the Ming and Qing capitals. To deepen your understanding of Cape & Jacket-Skirt culture, you can visit the Treasure Gallery of the Palace Museum to view physical examples of sets from different dynasties, and observe the fabric texture, embroidery craftsmanship, and pattern meanings up close.
You can also visit the Ethnic Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology to systematically understand the evolution of the Cape & Jacket-Skirt set through exhibits and explanations. Some time-honored brands and Hanfu experience stores also offer embroidery and edging experience courses, allowing travelers to make simple patterns by hand and experience the exquisite traditional clothing craftsmanship. When taking photos in the set, props such as oil-paper umbrellas and round fans can be matched to better highlight the gentle temperament of Eastern women and freeze-frame unique Beijing-style cultural memories.
A Cape & Jacket-Skirt set is not only a piece of clothing but also a crystallization of traditional Han culture and Eastern aesthetics. With its gentle structure and exquisite craftsmanship, it tells the social style and aesthetic pursuit of the Ming and Qing dynasties, carrying the cultural heritage of traditional Beijing clothing. When you walk through the ancient streets of the capital wearing this set, you can not only feel the elegance of traditional clothing but also become part of the Beijing-style scenery, leaving a profound cultural mark on your trip to Beijing.
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